A tomato can look ripe enough for a sandwich and still taste like little more than water once you cut into it. Salt helps, but it isn’t the only way to rescue a batch that lacks flavor. Chiles bring heat and earthy notes that can give bland tomatoes more character, whether you’re turning them into relish, sauce, or a cooked topping. The trick is choosing the right chile and adding less than you think you need at first.

Fresh chiles, dried flakes, and chile oil can all work. How much you use depends on whether you want a touch of warmth or enough heat to become the main flavor.
Start with the mild end
Dried chile flakes or chile oil offer an easy place to start when you want the tomatoes to remain the focus.
For fresh chiles, diced jalapeños add more heat without jumping straight to the hottest options.
Chop them and add them while the tomatoes simmer so the flavors have time to come together.
Cayenne peppers and habaneros move the heat much higher, while peppers such as Carolina reapers can overpower the tomatoes with a small amount.
Roast the tomatoes before adding the chiles
Heat can help tomatoes that lack flavor.
Roast them with a little olive oil before transferring them to a pot for sauce or relish. Bell peppers and fresh chiles can go into the oven too.
Roasting concentrates some of the tomato flavor while adding browned notes, giving the chiles more to work with than raw, watery fruit.
Chile seeds aren’t where most of the heat lives
Cut open a hot pepper and the seeds look like the obvious source of the burn.
They aren’t.
Capsaicin, the compound responsible for the burning sensation, is concentrated in the pale tissue and ribs inside the pepper. Seeds can pick up capsaicin through contact, but removing seeds alone doesn’t remove the hottest part.
Trim more of the white interior if you want greater control over the heat.
Test the heat before committing the whole batch
Too much chile can bury the tomato flavor you’re trying to rescue.
For a large batch of sauce or relish, divide some into smaller portions and test different amounts of chile before seasoning the whole pot.
Add a little, cook, and taste before adding more.
If the final sauce becomes too hot, adding more unseasoned tomato mixture can dilute the heat. Taking the capsaicin back out isn’t an option.
Bland tomatoes don’t have to stay bland. Roast them for more concentrated flavor, add chile with a light hand, and keep an eye on the pale ribs inside the pepper if you want to control how much heat reaches the finished dish.
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